{{Infobox Person
| name        = Sir Edmund Hillary
| image       = Edmund Hilllary by Kubik 2004.JPG
| caption     = Edmund Hillary di Polandia
| image_size  = 250px
| birth_date  = 
| death_date  = <!-- DO NOT CHANGE NZ DATE! -->
| birth_place = Auckland, New Zealand
| death_place = Auckland, New Zealand
| spouse      = Louise Mary Rose (1953-1975)<br />June Mulgrew (1989-2008)
| parents     = Percival Augustus Hillary<br />Gertrude Hillary, née Clark
| children    = Peter (1954)<br />Sarah (1955)<br />Belinda (1959-1975)
}}
Sir '''Edmund Percival Hillary''' (Tuakau, 20 Juli 1919—Wellington 11 Januari 2008), adalah seorang pendaki gunung. Ia menjadi terkenal karena ialah yang pertama kali menaklukkan Gunung Everest, puncak tertinggi Pegunungan Himalaya. Mereka sampai ke puncak gunung 8.850 meter pada tanggal 29 Mei 1953, dalam pendakiannya Edmund Hillary dibantu oleh 150 pendaki profesional dtambah 750 orang pendukung perbekalan bersama pemandu Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay.

thumb|right|150px|Sir Edmund Hillary di Antartika.

Setelah berhasil, Edmund Hillary terutama memusatkan perhatiannya untuk memperbaiki kondisi hidup penduduk Nepal, terutama kaum Sherpa.

== Lihat pula ==
* Daftar Tokoh Selandia Baru
* Auckland Grammar School

Kategori:Kelahiran 1919
Kategori:Kematian 2008
Kategori:Penjelajah Selandia Baru

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{{Infobox Person
| name        = Sir Edmund Hillary 
| image       = Edmundhillarycropped.jpg
| caption     = Hillary in 2006
| image_size  = 250px
| birth_date  = 
| death_date  = <!-- DO NOT CHANGE NZ DATE! -->
| birth_place = Auckland, New Zealand
| death_place = Auckland, New Zealand
| spouse      = Louise Mary Rose (1953-1975)<br>June Mulgrew (1989-2008)
| parents     = Percival Augustus Hillary<br>Gertrude Hillary, née Clark
| children    = Peter (1954)<br>Sarah (1955)<br>Belinda (1959-1975)
}}

'''Sir Edmund Percival Hillary''', KG, ONZ, KBE (mountaineer and explorer. On first climbers known to have reached the summit of John Hunt.

Hillary became interested in mountaineering while in high school, making his first major climb in 1939, reaching the summit of RNZAF as a navigator during World War II. Before the successful expedition in 1953 to Everest, he had been part of a reconnaissance expedition to the mountain in 1951 and an unsuccessful attempt to climb Cho Oyu in 1952. As part of the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition he reached the South Pole overland in 1958. He would later also travel to the North Pole.

Following his ascent of Everest he devoted much of his life to helping the Sherpa people of Nepal through the Himalayan Trust, which he founded. Through his efforts many schools and hospitals were built in this remote region of the Himalayas.

==Youth==
Hillary was born to Percival Augustus Hillary and Gertrude Hillary, née Clark, in Gallipoli) was allocated land there.<ref name=early>[http://www.nzhistory.net.nz/culture/edmund-hillary/early-years The early years - Ed Hillary], [http://www.nzhistory.net.nz/ New Zealand History online - Nga korero aipurangi o Aotearoa], Ministry for Culture and Heritage, Wellington, New Zealand. Updated Wairoa in the mid 19th century after emigrating from Yorkshire, England.<ref>Tyler, Heather Tyler [http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/6/story.cfm?c_id=6&objectid=10349189 Authorised Hillary biography reveals private touches]. NZ Herald. October 8, 2005.</ref>

Hillary was educated at Tuakau Primary School and then Auckland Grammar School.<ref name=early/> He finished primary school two years early, but struggled at high school, achieving only average marks.<ref name="Time obit">Simon Robinson, [http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1702543,00.html Sir Edmund Hillary: Top of the World], ''Time Magazine'', 2008-01-10. Accessed 2008-01-14.</ref> He was initially smaller than his peers there and very shy so he took refuge in his books and daydreams of a life filled with adventure. His daily train journey to and from high school was over two hours each way, during which he regularly used the time to read. He gained confidence after he learnt to box. At 16 his interest in climbing was sparked during a school trip to Mount Ruapehu. Though gangly at 6 ft 5 in (195cm) and uncoordinated, he found that he was physically strong and had greater endurance than many of his tramping companions.<ref name=times1>[http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/article3170995.ece Timesonline.co.uk dated January 112008, retrieved January 12 2008]</ref>
He studied mathematics and science at The University of Auckland, and in 1939 completed his first major climb, reaching the summit of Mount Ollivier, near Mt. Cook in the Southern Alps.<ref name=early/>
With his brother Rex, Hillary became a beekeeper,<ref name="Christchurch" /><ref name="time" /> a summer occupation that allowed him to pursue climbing in the winter.<ref name="natlgeo" />

==World War II==
Upon the outbreak of religious conscience".<ref name="nzheraldlife"></ref> Following the introduction of conscription on the outbreak of war in the Pacific, in 1943 Hillary joined the RNZAF as a Catalina flying boats. In 1945 he was sent to Fiji and to the Solomon Islands where he was badly burned in a boating accident, after which he was repatriated to New Zealand.<ref name="nzheraldlife" />

==Expeditions==
Hillary was part of a British reconnaissance expedition to Everest in 1951 led by Eric Shipton before joining the successful British attempt of 1953.

In 1952 Hillary and George Lowe were part of the British team led by Eric Shipton that attempted Cho Oyu. After that attempt failed due to the lack of route from the Nepal side, Hillary and Lowe crossed the Lho-La into Tibet and reached the old Camp II, on the northern side, where all the pre-war expeditions camped.

===1953 Everest Expedition===
thumb|left|On top of the world: [[Tenzing Norgay|Tenzing on the summit of Mt Everest.  Photograph taken by Hillary, 29 May 1953.]]
The route to Everest was closed by Chinese-controlled Swiss expedition (in which Tenzing took part) had attempted to reach the summit in 1952 but was turned back by bad weather  from the summit. During a 1952 trip in the Alps Hillary discovered he and his friend George Lowe had been invited by the Joint Himalayan Committee for the approved British 1953 attempt and immediately accepted.<ref name="HighAdventure">Hillary, Edmund, ''High Adventure: The True Story of the First Ascent of Everest''</ref>

Shipton was named as leader but was replaced by Hunt. Hillary considered pulling out, but both Hunt and Shipton talked him into remaining. Hillary was intending to climb with Lowe but Hunt named two teams for the assault: Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans; and Hillary and Tenzing. Hillary therefore made a concerted effort to forge a working friendship with Tenzing.<ref name="HighAdventure" />

The Hunt expedition totaled over 400 people, including 362 porters, twenty Lhotse Face, a huge and steep ice face, for climbing. Hillary forged a route through the treacherous Khumbu Icefall.<ref name="HighAdventure" />

The expedition set up base camp in March 1953. Working slowly it set up its final camp at the South Col at . On 26 May Bourdillon and Evans attempted the climb but turned back when Evans' oxygen system failed. The pair had reached the South Summit, coming within 300 vertical feet (91 m) of the summit.<ref name=rgs>[http://www.unlockingthearchives.rgs.org/resources/documents/Reaching%20the%20Top3.pdf ''REACHING THE TOP''] Royal Geographical Society, retrieved January 13, 2008.</ref><ref name="nzedge" /> Hunt then directed Hillary and Tenzing to go for the summit.

Snow and wind held the pair up at the South Col for two days. They set out on thumb|right|Sir Edmund (left) and Tenzing after they had come down from the Everest summit in [[1953<br> ]] -->

They spent only about 15 minutes at the summit. They looked for evidence of the 1924 Mallory expedition, but found none.<ref>In 1999, George Mallory's well preserved frozen body was found at the 27,000 ft level. His camera was not located, and if is ever found, the film inside could provide a definitive answer to whether he and Sandy Irvine summited Everest in 1924. [http://www.everestnews2004.com/malloryandirvine2004/stories2004/georgemallory.htm  "Because it's there," - George Leigh Mallory]</ref> Hillary took Tenzing's photo, Tenzing left chocolates in the snow as an offering, and Hillary left a cross that he had been given.<ref name="HighAdventure" /> Because Tenzing did not know how to use a camera, there are no pictures of Hillary there.<ref name="photos">Joanna Wright (2003). "[http://imagingeverest.rgs.org/concepts/Virtual_Everest/-285.html The Photographs]", in ''Everest, Summit of Achievement'', by the Royal Geographic Society. Simon & Schuster, New York. ISBN 0743243862. Accessed 2008-01-11.</ref>
The two had to take care on the descent after discovering that drifting snow had covered their tracks, complicating the task of retracing their steps. The first person they met was Lowe, who had climbed up to meet them with hot soup.

News of the successful expedition reached Britain on the day of the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. The group was surprised by the international acclaim that they received upon arriving in Kathmandu.<ref name="HighAdventure" />
Hillary and Hunt were knighted by the young queen,<ref name=gazetteKnighthood></ref> while Tenzing received either the British Empire Medal,<ref name=pbsnova/> or the George Medal from the British Government for his efforts with the expedition.<ref name=NorgayODNB></ref><ref></ref>  It has been suggested that Indian prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru refused permission for Tenzing to be knighted.<ref name=NorgayODNB />

===After Everest===
thumb|right|200px|Hillary in 1957 after accompanying the first plane to land at the [[Marble Point ground air strip, Antarctica]]
Hillary climbed ten other peaks in the Himalayas on further visits in 1956, 1960&ndash;61, and 1963&ndash;65. He also reached the South Pole as part of the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition, for which he led the New Zealand section, on 4 January 1958. His party was the first to reach the Pole overland since Amundsen in 1911 and Scott in 1912, and the first ever to do so using motor vehicles. In 1977, he led a jetboat expedition, titled "Ocean to Sky", from the mouth of the Ganges River to its source. 

In 1979, as he had done previously,<ref>[http://www.nzhistory.net.nz/culture/erebus-disaster/visiting-antarctica ''The Antarctic experience - Erebus disaster''] New Zealand History online, retrieved January 13, 2008.</ref> Hillary was scheduled to act as a commentator on the ill-fated Air New Zealand Flight 901, an Antarctic sightseeing flight, but had to pull out due to work commitments elsewhere. He was replaced by his close friend Peter Mulgrew, who perished as the aircraft crashed on Mount Erebus, killing all 257 on board.<ref>Radio New Zealand, [http://www.radionz.co.nz/nr/programmes/sir_edmund_hillary Sir Edmund Hillary: A Tribute], Retrieved January 14, 2008</ref> He later married Mulgrew's widow.<ref>[http://www.nzhistory.net.nz/culture/edmund-hillary On top of the world: Ed Hillary] - '''Full biography''' of Edmund Hillary on NZHistory.net.nz</ref><ref>[http://www.nzedge.com/heroes/hillary.html NZEdge biography]</ref>

Hillary took part in the 1975 general election, as a member of the "High Commissioner to India (concurrently High Commissioner to Bangladesh and Ambassador to Nepal) and spent four and a half years based in New Delhi. In 1985 he accompanied Neil Armstrong in a small twin-engined ski plane over the Arctic Ocean and landed at the North Pole. He thus became the first man to stand at both poles and on the summit of Everest.<ref>[http://www.time.com/time/2003/adventures/interview.html TIME: The Greatest Adventures of All Time - The Race to the Pole] (interview with Sir Edmund)</ref><ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/everest/story/0,,955942,00.html March 2003 interview with Hillary in] ''The Guardian''</ref><ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/nol/newsid_7180000/newsid_7184400/7184434.stm Video: Interview on HardTalk]</ref>

In January 2007, Hillary travelled to Antarctica to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the founding of Scott Base. He flew to the station on 18 January 2007 with a delegation including the Prime Minister. 
<ref>NDTV, [http://www.ndtv.com/morenews/showmorestory.asp?slug=Sir+Edmund+Hillary+revisits+Antarctica&id=99755 ''Sir Edmund Hillary revisits Antarctica''], January 20, 2007.
</ref><ref>
Claire Harvey, The New Zealand Herald, [http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/466/story.cfm?c_id=466&objectid=10419569 ''Claire Harvey on Ice: Arriving at Scott Base''], January 20, 2007. 
</ref><ref>
Radio Network, [http://www.newstalkzb.co.nz/newsdetail1.asp?storyID=110625 ''PM and Sir Edmund Hillary off to Scott Base''], January 15, 2007. Retrieved January 20, 2007.</ref> While there he called for the British government to contribute to the upkeep of Scott's and Shackleton's huts.<ref>The Press [http://www.stuff.co.nz/3935442a10.html ''Hillary slates Brits over historic huts ''], retrieved February 12, 2007
</ref> 
On 22 April 2007 while on a trip to Kathmandu he is reported to have suffered a fall. There was no comment on the nature of his illness and he did not immediately seek treatment. He was hospitalized after returning to New Zealand.<ref>Stuart Dye, The New Zealand Herald, [http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/1/story.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10435883 ''Clark sends goodwill message to Sir Edmund''], Tuesday April 24, 2007
</ref>

==Public recognition==
left|thumb|300px|Edmund Hillary on the [[New Zealand dollar|New Zealand five-dollar note.]]
Hillary was created a Knight Commander of the Hillary College (Otara), Edmund Hillary Primary School (Papakura) and the Hillary Commission (now SPARC). 

300px|thumb|right||Statue of Hillary permanently gazing towards [[Aoraki/Mount Cook, one of his favourite peaks.<ref>[http://www.rbnz.govt.nz/currency/money/explaining_currency.pdf Explaining Currency] NZ Government</ref>]]
In 1992 Hillary appeared on the updated New Zealand $5 note, thus making him the only New Zealander to appear on a banknote during his or her lifetime, in defiance of the established convention for banknotes of using only depictions of deceased individuals, and current heads of state.  The Reserve Bank governor at the time, Don Brash, had originally intended to use a deceased sportsperson on the $5 note but could not find a suitable candidate.  Instead he broke with convention by requesting and receiving Hillary's permission &mdash; along with an insistence from Hillary to use Aoraki/Mount Cook rather than Mount Everest in the backdrop.  The image also features a Ferguson TE20 tractor like the one Hillary used to reach the South Pole on the Commonwealth Trans-Antarctic Expedition.<ref>[http://www.stuff.co.nz/4352295a26512.html "Face on a Banknote a Break with Convention"], ''The Dominion Post'', 12 January 2008, accessed 13 January 2008.</ref>

To mark the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the first successful ascent of Everest the Nepalese Government conferred honorary citizenship upon Hillary at a special Golden Jubilee celebration in Kathmandu. He was the first foreign national to receive such an honour from the Nepalese government.<ref>[http://www.gorkhapatra.org.np/content.php?nid=34096 Mountaineering Great Edmund Hillary passes away] Jan. 12, 2008 The Rising Nepal</ref>

In 2008, the same year he died, the Indian Government conferred him with Padma Vibhushan, the second highest civilian honour of the country.<ref>[http://www.hindustantimes.com/Redir.aspx?ID=cc6e2f18-c4f6-4478-8a16-076f5d033701&ParentID=2ceefc34-8f58-47ab-b358-ee7a5630f4a7 119 get Padma Awards] Jan. 25, 2008 Hindustan Times</ref>

A  bronze statue of "Sir Ed" was installed outside The Hermitage hotel at Mt Cook village, New Zealand, in 2003.
left|thumb|200px|Edmund Hillary in [[Warsaw, 2004.]]

==Family life==
Hillary married Louise Mary Rose on 3 September, 1953, soon after the ascent of Everest. A shy man, he relied on his future mother-in-law to propose on his behalf.<ref name="natlgeo" /><ref name="time" /><ref>[http://library.christchurch.org.nz/Kids/FamousNewZealanders/Edmund.asp ''Famous New Zealanders'']. Retrieved 22 January, 2007.</ref> They had three children: Peter (1954), Sarah (1955) and Belinda (1959). She died in (1975).<ref name="nzedge">The New Zealand Edge, [http://www.nzedge.com/heroes/hillary.html ''Sir Edmund Hillary&mdash;KING OF THE WORLD'']. Retrieved 22 January, 2007.</ref><ref name="Christchurch" />
In 1975 while en route to join Hillary in the village of Phaphlu, where he was helping to build a hospital, Louise and Belinda were killed in a plane crash near Kathmandu airport shortly after take-off.<ref name="time">Robert Sullivan, Time Magazine, [http://www.time.com/time/2003/adventures/interview.html ''Sir Edmund Hillary&mdash;A visit with the world's greatest living adventurer''], 12 September, 2003. Retrieved 22 January, 2007.</ref>
Hillary married June Mulgrew, the widow of his close friend Peter Mulgrew, on 21 December 1989.<ref name="natlgeo">National Geographic, [http://magma.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0305/feature1/index.html?fs=www7.nationalgeographic.com ''Everest: 50 Years and Counting'']. Retrieved 22 January, 2007.</ref><ref>Sailing Source, [http://www.sailingsource.com/newfeatures/article_2002_09_22_3044.php ''Sir Edmund Hillary to Start Rolex Sydney-Hobart Race'']. Retrieved 22 January, 2007.</ref>
His son Peter Hillary has also become a climber, conquering Everest in 1990. In April 2003 Peter and Jamling Tenzing Norgay (son of Tenzing) climbed Everest as part of a 50th anniversary celebration.<ref>NPR, [http://www.npr.org/programs/re/archivesdate/2003/apr/everest/index.html ''Everest: To the Top of the World''], 25 April, 2003. Retrieved 22 January, 2007.</ref>
Hillary had six grandchildren, altogether.

==Philanthropy==
Following his ascent of Everest he devoted much of his life to helping the Sherpa people of Nepal through the Himalayan Trust, which he founded. Through his efforts many schools and hospitals were built in this remote region of the Himalayas. He was the Honorary President of the American Himalayan Foundation, a United States non-profit body that helps improve the ecology and living conditions in the Himalayas.